As New York has been struggling through a heatwave these last few weeks, I’ve found myself reaching for refreshing white wines, and one of my favorite choices in that regard is Muscadet wines, which hail from the Loire Valley of France. Muscadets are made from the melon de bourgogne grape, and in my experience they are quite dry, with light lemony flavors as its central profile, and often a briny minerality. These characteristics make these wines a great match for seafood and other light fare; they also make muscadets a great choice for fans of Chablis wines, which have a similar profile. Another thing that makes muscadet one of the staples of my wine diet is affordability, with very solid examples in abundance in the $10-13 range, and the high end examples often found for under $20. Some of the best known names in the region include Domaine Luneau-Papin and Domaine de la Pépière; below are notes on a few muscadets I’ve enjoyed recently. Check them out and stay cool! -Alan
- 2008 Guy Saget Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Les Clissages d’Or – France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (7/16/2010)
On the nose, slight funk and notions of seashell. On the palate, this has the citrusy foundation and slight briny taste common to many muscadets, but it has a nice sweetness to it that combines with the juicy acid here to present a long, inviting finish. Quite well done and a good accessible example for those new to muscadet. 89-90+ (90 pts.)
- 2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords – France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (7/16/2010)
Leaner and more mineral-laden, with slight vegetal green, compared to the Domaine de la Pinardiere muscadet. Likable, consistent with prior vintages of this wine, for those who are into salinity more than fruitiness in their wine. 89-90. (90 pts.)
Look also for the excellent Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie bottling from this producer, which runs a few dollars cheaper than the Clos des Briords but is often just as good.
- 2008 Pinardière, Domaine de la Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie – France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (7/16/2010)
The nose has fresh fruits – green apple, stone fruits. Palate is a bit briny, citrus-like acidity. Full-flavored for a muscadet, with a bit of richness to it that’s quite pleasing. 88-90 points. (89 pts.)
The Clissages d’Or was tasted from a complimentary review bottle; the Clos des Briords and Pinardiere were tasted free of a charge at a public retailer tasting.
